Matsumae

(August 22)
Matsumae is the only castle town in Hokkaido. In the middle of 16C., the Matsumae Clan unified the southern part of Oshima Peninsula. They served Hideyoshi Toyotomi, who unified the whole country in 1590. In 1604, the monopoly of the trade in Ezo(chi) was authorized by "Shogun" or "Tycoon" Ieyasu Tokugawa. After that, the Matsumaes ruled this area for generations.

(left)The Donjon's Gate of Matsumae Castle
The castle tower was burned down in 1949(restored in 1961).
Matsumae Castle was built in 1606. In 1849, Tokugawa government ordered the Matsumae's to build a new castle to prevent Rrssia from moving south down,and the old castle was demolished. The new castle was completed in 1854. It was 240 meters from east to west,300 meters from south to north,having 16 gates,7 gun batteries and 4 turrets. The last large-scale castle built in Japan.
In 1875,under the Meiji new government, most parts were pulled down except the castle tower and the donjon's gate.

(right)Kitamae Sen
They were the merchant ships sailed to Matsumae and Esashi from Tsuruga via Japan Sea. In 19C.,the route was extended as far as to Shimonoseki(the western end of Honshu) and Osaka.
At that time, each clan supported its finance mainly by nengu(the rice paied by the farmers instead of property tax). But they had no rice crop in Matsumae those days. Therefore,the Matsumae's digged gold dust, had the people pay the tax in kind, sold the specialties--falcons' feathers,salmons,kelp and so on--or imposed tax on the merchant ships and their goods.
After the Japan-U.S. Friendship Treaty was signed(1854),the Matsumaes became powerful both financially and politically. They profitted from the tax on the merchant ships and the trade with foreign countries. Some of them took part in the Tokugawa government.

(left)The Old Good Matsumae Sen
The route is discontinued, now.
In the new castle tower,you can study about the history of Oshima Peninsula.
Matsumae Park is famous for cherry blossoms(250 varieties,7,000 trees, according to my old guide book). From the end of April through May,you can enjoy the blossoms. 1-minute walk from the castle.

(right)The Residence of the ancient Matsumaeites with homemade smoked salmons behind.
Prosperous days of the Matsumaes

Take JR Esahi Sen from Hakodate to Kikonai. Bus service is available, but if your schedule does not permit, using rent-a-car or rent-a-bicycle would be preferable.